The 53rd Balenciaga Couture Collection showcases the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship through innovative techniques and modern material use. Drawing inspiration from various subcultures such as streetwear, goth, skater, and metalhead, this collection merges minimalist forms with reimagined glamour. Central to this collection is the relationship between fabric, form, the garment, and the body.
COUTURE COLLECTIONS
The collection pays homage to Balenciaga’s archives while modernizing processes and finishes. One striking example is a minimalist t-shirt, hand-lined with black scuba satin, reflecting Warhol’s influence on everyday objects elevated to art forms.
Demna incorporates four of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s signature elements into his designs: the cocoon silhouette that emphasizes space between the garment and the body, the three-quarter bell-shaped sleeve, extravagant millinery, and innovative fabrics. Leather, denim, and nylon wrap jackets showcase cocooning gestures and structured volume, while three-quarter sleeves adorn hoodies and hand-painted t-shirts by artist Abdelhak Benallou. A trompe l’oeil “fur” coat, crafted from synthetic hair and hand-dyed by hairstylist Gary Gill, exemplifies the intricate craftsmanship, taking approximately 2.5 months to complete.
Hats in the collection feature hand-draped and resin-frozen t-shirts created with artist Ni Hao, and carbon fiber bodies made in collaboration with artist Alastair Gibson, showcasing the avant-garde approach to accessories.
The final looks explore material possibilities and their relationship with the body, a core focus of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s work. A white column dress made from melted and upcycled plastic bags retains some original graphics, while a draped leather dress, held together by a giant safety pin, features no cut edges, darts, or seams, nodding to Balenciaga’s masterful patternmaking.
A bustier column of aluminum foil melds around the body, and a faux fur bustier dress uses traditional fur patternmaking techniques with tiny strips sewn together in a herringbone pattern, taking 7.5 weeks to produce. A seamless second skin dress of deep black flocked leather doubles as a jewelry vitrine, adorned with an original archival necklace from 1960.
The collection’s finale is an ephemeral wedding dress made of nylon, re-envisioning gazar fabric. The Couture atelier team drapes, staples, and sculpts 47 meters of material directly on the model moments before the presentation. This piece, taking approximately 30 minutes to make and 30 seconds to dissolve, embodies the transient nature of couture.
The collection’s butterfly motifs, inspired by artist Yumi Okita, symbolize transformation, hope, and freedom, reflecting the magic and poetry of Balenciaga’s ephemeral couture. These meticulously hand-embroidered veils highlight the extraordinary beauty and perfect design of butterflies, echoing the collection’s theme of transformation and innovation.
