Chanel has just announced the departure of Virginie Viard, who took the reins as artistic director after the legendary Karl Lagerfeld passed away in 2019. Viard, who was closely associated with Lagerfeld during her nearly 30-year tenure at Chanel, will be stepping down after five years at the helm.
Under Viard’s leadership, Chanel experienced substantial financial growth, but despite this success, her collections often received mixed reviews, with critics arguing that while she maintained the luxurious essence of Chanel, her attempts to infuse youthfulness into the brand sometimes missed the mark. Her designs, which featured elements like bow ties, various kinds of shorts, and an affinity for 1980s silhouettes, marked a notable departure from Lagerfeld’s flamboyant runway theatrics.
Viard’s era at Chanel was one of cautious stewardship rather than bold reinvention. She was seen as a caretaker of Lagerfeld’s legacy rather than a transformative figure like her predecessor, who led the brand for over three decades and was known for his visionary and often theatrical approach.
Her departure was announced shortly after Chanel’s cruise show in Marseille. This change at Chanel is part of a broader trend of leadership shifts at major fashion houses, highlighted by recent changes at Valentino and ongoing rumors of Hedi Slimane’s upcoming exit from Celine.
The fashion community has already begun speculating about Viard’s potential successors, with names like Hedi Slimane, who was Lagerfeld’s favourite, and Pierpaolo Piccioli, who recently left Valentino. Chanel has stated that “a new creative organization will be announced in due course,” with the fashion house’s couture show in Paris this June proceeding as scheduled.
As Chanel turns the page on another chapter in its history, the industry watches with bated breath to see who will next occupy one of fashion’s most coveted roles, and how they will steer the iconic brand in an era that demands a delicate balance between heritage and innovation.