Christian Cowan unveiled his SS25 collection on the BLADE EAST tarmac in New York City, with the Queens skyline and East River serving as a dramatic backdrop. The collection primarily featured a bold palette of silver, black, and cobalt blue—a notable departure from Cowan’s previous collections where cobalt blue had been largely absent. His signature star motifs, ostrich plumes, and hero silhouettes returned, showcasing the designer’s flair for dramatic, statement-making fashion.
Building upon the tailoring techniques that were a highlight on the 2024 MET Gala red carpet, this season presented sharp, layered tailoring for both men and women. A standout detail was the use of metal roses as closures, piercing through fabric to create an edgy, modern look. Cowan’s signature blend of underwear as outerwear was also evident, particularly in the men’s ready-to-wear, which brought further depth to the brand’s evolving design language.
When asked about the mood and inspiration behind this collection, Cowan shared an elaborate and theatrical narrative. He described a high-society scene set to Wagner’s “Tristan und Isolde,” with a poisoned martini, a glamorous murder mystery, and a chic hunt for the culprit. This cinematic storytelling added a layer of intrigue and drama, perfectly complementing the bold designs on display.
A key feature of this season was the collaboration between Christian Cowan and Smiley® for the Smiley Future Positive capsule collection. This partnership focused on optimism, responsible sourcing, and innovation. Ross Wilson, Chief Product Officer of Smiley, emphasized that the collection symbolized a hopeful future for the fashion industry.
Footwear for the show was provided exclusively by DSW Designer Shoe Warehouse, while select jewelry looks came from Astrid & Miyu. Adding to the playful atmosphere, one model walked down the runway holding a can of Poppi, a prebiotic soda. Another fun detail was the sleek, minimalist umbrellas crafted in collaboration with SHED RAIN. These custom umbrellas, which were gifted to each attendee, further encapsulated the collection’s stylish and practical vibe.
Notable guests in attendance included a star-studded list of celebrities and fashion insiders, such as Kristin Chenoweth, Laverne Cox, Coco Rocha, JoJo Siwa, Isamaya French, Yung Miami, Dylan Mulvaney, and Law Roach, among others.
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