This season, Ludovic de Saint Sernin redefines the fashion experience by embracing a more intimate and evocative storytelling approach for his SS25 collection. Instead of a traditional runway presentation, the collection comes alive through a series of images, captured by the lens of Adam Peter Johnson. The imagery, marked by stark contrasts and sculptural poses, evokes a narrative filled with both vulnerability and strength. With Carlos Nazario‘s deft styling, each frame strikes a balance between grace and edge.
View this post on Instagram
Drawing inspiration from the gowns of Pina Bausch, Rudolf Nureyev‘s legendary stage presence, and Robert Mapplethorpe’s raw documentation of dancers, de Saint Sernin explores the physicality and expressiveness inherent in dance. Each piece embodies a flirtatious interplay—ballet-inspired silhouettes are reimagined with elements of bondage, capturing a dialogue between poise and provocation.
The materials selected for this collection play a crucial role in conveying a sense of movement and tactile drama. Jackets are crafted from layered virgin wool, designed to catch the air and flutter with the fluidity of a dancer’s movement. Low-slung leather briefs are adorned with delicate ostrich plumes, while boleros and vests shimmer with intricately arranged goose feathers. The monochrome palette of virginal white and deep black embodies the duality of innocence and seduction, mirroring the “Black Swan” motif that runs through the collection.
The garments themselves are poetic contradictions—delicate yet defiant. Feather-trimmed leather leotards with cutouts embrace sensuality, while chiffon tank tops and jersey layers add an element of casual elegance to the mix. De Saint Sernin’s fascination with structure manifests in pieces like the bralettes, where straps twist and coil around the body, allowing glimpses of skin while suggesting an almost architectural control. These details, paired with pastel-hued skirts in translucent sequins and metal mesh, challenge the viewer to see beyond typical fashion binaries.
De Saint Sernin’s SS25 also revives and reinterprets brand signatures in unexpected ways. The iconic lace-up detailing on denim has been replaced with a more classic button fly, a nod to the designer’s ability to innovate without losing the essence of the brand. Meanwhile, the wrap skirt, a staple of previous collections, has been reimagined with a subtler lacing that forgoes hardware for simplicity. The signature eyelet-studded leather chaps return with an unapologetic nod to fetishwear, paired with relaxed trench coats and oversized bomber jackets, highlighting the designer’s versatility.
In the imagery for this collection, Ludovic de Saint Sernin captures a exploration of light and shadow, innocence and sensuality. Each piece tells a story of duality: the pursuit of perfection that dance demands, juxtaposed with the raw authenticity of life offstage. Through his unique lens, de Saint Sernin creates a wardrobe that invites wearers to experience both fantasy and reality.
View the collection in the Gallery below:
Ludovic is so talented I am always amazed by his collections 💙💙💙
he is indeed! but this is very Ludovic, it is the same recycled thing, i do like that its a strong language that he keeps. But I am not sure how he will work with another brand, we already know it didnt go well with Ann, although the owners of that brand are a mess. Don;t think its his fault.