DSCENE Magazine editor Katarina Doric sits down with Lorena Pipenco, the visionary founder behind the emerging brand Pipenco, to discuss the story and inspiration behind their latest Spring Summer 2025 collection. This collection, recently debuted at fashion week, is a heartfelt tribute to the women who shaped Pipenco’s life—a celebration viewed through the lens of her younger self. Drawing from the resilience and strength of traditional Romanian women, the collection features upcycled and collected fabrics reimagined into regal, modern designs.
INTERVIEWS
Pipenco’s work aims to bridge generations, blending tradition with bold creativity, and offering a space to reclaim the innocence of childhood while embracing cultural heritage. In this interview, Lorena shares how her upbringing, her grandmother’s craft, and the longing for youthful freedom all came together to create a powerful expression of style, sustainability, and personal narrative. She also discusses Pipenco’s collaboration with “We Are Atlas” and her commitment to sustainability, all while shaping a brand that stands at the intersection of nostalgia and modernity.
Pipenco started with the idea of bringing back the feeling of youth and providing a space free from generational pressures. What inspired you to create a brand, and how did your own experiences influence its early days? – The brand came from a very personal place. Growing up in an immigrant family, I was always caught between two worlds—my Romanian heritage and the new cultural landscape I was navigating in London. Clothes were always a connecting point within my family, especially because my grandmother was a seamstress in Romania. She passed down her love for creating, and that craft became a form of communication between generations. I found myself constantly grappling with the weight of generational expectations, but at the same time, I longed for the innocence of childhood, that feeling of freedom before you understand the burdens of identity and societal roles. My brand became a way to reclaim that sense of wonder and imagination. The early days were about merging those conflicting feelings—honouring tradition while creating a space to breathe, to be playful, and to feel young again, free from the constraints of who I was supposed to be.
Your designs are known for their playful, flamboyant proportions and vibrant knits. How do you infuse a sense of childhood innocence and nostalgia into pieces that also feel powerful and contemporary? – Childhood is all about exaggeration in how we experience the world—everything feels bigger, brighter, and more intense. I channel that through oversized silhouettes, exaggerated accessories, and vibrant colors. There’s an innocence in those flamboyant proportions, but they also embody strength. I want the wearer to feel like they’re stepping into a memory that evokes warmth and joy, yet the designs remain modern by blending sculptural shapes and unexpected textures. This contrast of innocence and power mirrors the way we see strength as children—something larger than life, yet deeply comforting.
Pipenco’s SS25 collection is a heartfelt tribute to the women who influenced your life. Could you share more about how these women shaped your vision for this collection? – The women in my family, particularly my grandmother and mother, have always been my foundation. My grandmother was a seamstress, and her craft not only provided for the family but became a symbol of resilience and survival. My mother’s journey to the UK opened up possibilities for us, and I owe my creative path to her courage. This collection is my way of honouring their strength and love. It reflects the regal, almost queenly nature of traditional Romanian women, but I’ve also added contemporary elements to show their adaptability, their ability to evolve and endure. These women’s stories are stitched into every piece, from the traditional embroidery to the modern silhouettes.
The contrast of innocence and power mirrors the way we see strength as children—something larger than life, yet deeply comforting.
The collection features upcycled Romanian fabrics and traditional elements. What was the process like sourcing these materials, and how did you decide which pieces would become part of the designs? – Sourcing the materials is a deeply personal journey for me. My family members who still live in Romania have been instrumental in collecting discarded fabrics, tapestries, old lace, and even household items like pillowcases and tablecloths. Each piece carries its own story, a history I feel responsible to preserve. When deciding which pieces to use, it’s about finding a balance between honouring the fabric’s original form and transforming it into something new. I often dye the fabrics to breathe new life into them while avoiding cutting any of the material to preserve its original integrity. I want to respect the craftsmanship behind these materials, so I keep their core identity intact but reimagine them in modern ways, like creating voluminous dresses or intricate accessories.
There’s a strong theme of resilience and strength in the collection. How did you balance the delicate and traditional elements with the bold and sculptural shapes you introduced? – The balance came from viewing resilience as both soft and strong. Romanian craftsmanship—whether in tapestries or embroidery—has an inherent delicacy, but the stories behind these traditions are full of strength. To reflect that, I paired delicate fabrics with bold, sculptural shapes to create a tension between fragility and power. I wanted the pieces to feel like Armor, but with a softness that represents nurturing and love. The exaggerated accessories and architectural silhouettes give a modern edge while ensuring that the traditional elements aren’t overshadowed but elevated.
Sustainability is non-negotiable for me, but I don’t see it as a limitation. It pushes me to be more creative. By repurposing materials, we’re not just reducing waste—we’re also telling new stories through old fabrics, finding beauty in what was once discarded.
You’ve collaborated with “We Are Atlas” for this collection. Could you tell us more about how that partnership came to life and the significance of the eco-quiz tote bags? – The collaboration with “We Are Atlas” has a personal story behind it. I met the founder at a shoe repair shop, and we quickly realized we were both Romanian. That initial connection sparked a deeper conversation, and we soon discovered our shared values around sustainability and environmental awareness. Their mission to make sustainability fun, approachable, and educational resonated deeply with me, and from there, the collaboration came to life naturally.
The eco-quiz tote bags were inspired by their playful and interactive approach to environmental issues. Each tote was hand-painted by the founder, and we gifted them at our show as a way to engage our audience in a meaningful dialogue. The central question printed on the bags is “EARTH IS?”, and people are invited to answer the question directly on their social media. This invites reflection on what the planet means to them, creating an educational moment without being heavy-handed. It’s a creative way to make sustainability accessible, engaging, and fun.
Sustainability is at the core of your brand. How do you maintain that commitment while still pushing boundaries with your designs, and how do you see Pipenco evolving in this space? – Sustainability is non-negotiable for me, but I don’t see it as a limitation. It pushes me to be more creative. By repurposing materials, we’re not just reducing waste—we’re also telling new stories through old fabrics, finding beauty in what was once discarded. I believe sustainability is simply part of the way I work; it’s embodied in the choices I make. I don’t think it should be the identity of the brand but rather a natural way of working—it’s simply what we do because we must.
I work closely with factories that share this commitment, and we constantly rethink how we can minimize waste, whether that’s through handcrafting or using low-impact production methods. Moving forward, I want to explore more ways to integrate sustainability, like experimenting with new eco-friendly technologies or partnering with artisans who practice sustainable craft techniques. For me, Pipenco’s evolution is about deepening that commitment while continuing to push design boundaries.
I hope to communicate that fashion can be both a personal expression and a form of storytelling that transcends borders.
As an emerging brand, what message do you hope to communicate to your audience through this collection, both in terms of personal expression and the broader cultural and environmental themes it reflects? – I hope to communicate that fashion can be both a personal expression and a form of storytelling that transcends borders. This collection reflects my personal journey of reconciling heritage and modern identity, weaving together the narratives of my family’s past with my experiences as an immigrant family in a new culture. It serves as a reminder of the resilience and strength that comes from our roots, as well as the shared stories that bind us together in a globalized world.
On a broader scale, I want this collection to speak to the themes of community and the importance of preserving culture amidst the rapid changes of modern life. In a world that often prioritizes fast fashion and disposability, I aim to show that sustainability can be beautiful and innovative. It’s not just about using eco-friendly materials; it’s about reimagining the stories behind those materials and honouring the craftsmanship that comes from generations past while being mindful of the future.
I want people to feel empowered by these pieces—to see themselves in the stories they tell and to embrace the idea that fashion can be a tool for both self-expression and positive change. Each piece is an invitation to reflect on our shared humanity and the impact we can have when we approach fashion with intention and care. I hope this collection inspires others to embrace their own stories and consider how they can contribute to a more sustainable and compassionate world.
What’s next for you? – I’m excited about continuing to explore the intersection of tradition and modernity. We plan to collaborate with the Romanian Cultural Institute in New York for an exhibition, as their support has been invaluable. I’m also working on our next show for NYFW, where we will be delving into some Romanian historical stories that will inspire the upcoming collection. Additionally, I’m looking into partnering with more artisans from Romania to further highlight the rich cultural narratives that inspire my work. Hopefully, you’ll also be seeing some new collaborations and pop-up shop events happening in New York, along with the launch of new accessories. As always, I’ll keep pushing to create thoughtful, meaningful pieces that connect people with their own heritage and the world around them.
Keep up with Pipenco on Instagram – @pipencolorena
