Yonathan Carmel’s SS25 collection for Vautrait is a deeply personal ode to Paris—not the postcard-perfect city seen through tourist eyes, but an intimate and imagined version shaped by nostalgia and fragmented memories. Carmel’s experience of shuttling between Tel Aviv and Paris left an imprint not only on his aesthetic but also on his understanding of the city’s unique style.
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Carmel’s approach to fashion is a reclamation of territory. For him, Paris isn’t just a backdrop for his creations; it’s the soul of his work. This collection serves as a response to the dissolution of localized fashion, an effort to bring back a sense of place and craft that global sameness threatens to erase. Through these garments, Carmel strives to recover something that has been forgotten but never entirely lost—a sense of Parisian fashion as a craft, rather than just a commodity.
Carmel speaks of a longing for a place he has never been, a Paris that exists in a dreamlike state, comprised of fragments of history and imagination. His collection is an attempt to give life to that feeling—creating garments that embody a sense of longing and evoke a time that is both non-existent and timeless. It’s a reflection on the way memories and fantasies shape our perception of places and experiences.
Vautrait SS25 collection features a wardrobe that paints an evocative portrait of Parisian chic. His tailoring expertise is evident in pieces like oversized leather blousons effortlessly thrown over silk dresses, as well as blazers tailored to accentuate a feminine silhouette. There is a sense of balance throughout the collection—a blend of modernity and nostalgia, structure and fluidity. Loose-fitting trench coats and slacks are juxtaposed against pieces that cinch and contour, creating a dynamic interplay between masculine and feminine elements.
The collection’s vintage undertones are unmistakable, with a hardy textile palette that contributes to its sense of timelessness. Rich leathers, delicate silks, and sturdy woolen fabrics evoke the materials of a bygone era, further emphasizing the collection’s nostalgic essence. This homage to vintage Paris is intentional—Carmel wants to remind us of a time when fashion wasn’t about mass production but about artistry, craft, and a deep connection to the culture from which it emerged.
In embracing the past, Carmel doesn’t simply aim to recreate it; rather, he uses it as a foundation to imagine a future shaped by memory and craft. His Spring/Summer 2025 collection stands as an example of his desire to breathe new life into something seemingly outdated. It’s not about the “now” but about what is yet to come from a past that never was.
View the collection in the Gallery below:
Vautrait is doing such a brilliant job! This is one of the brands from Paris fashion week in need of a bigger spotlight! Really happy to see you covering it ❤️❤️❤️