Editor Katarina Doric sits down with Tatiana Kuznetsova, the visionary founder behind Poggio del Moro, one of Tuscany’s most beautiful wineries. Over the past 17 years, Tatiana has transformed this enchanting estate, located in the rolling hills south of Montepulciano, into a haven of organic winemaking celebrated worldwide. Rated among the most beautiful wineries globally, Poggio del Moro is a place where passion, tradition, and sustainability converge to create wines that reflect the region’s rich terroir and the “soul” of each vineyard.
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In this exclusive DSCENE interview, Tatiana shares her experience of building Poggio del Moro from the ground up, her dedication to honoring traditional winemaking practices, and her philosophy of natural fermentation, which allows the vineyard’s unique character to shine. From meticulously cultivated vineyards to a modern winery designed to complement its picturesque surroundings, Poggio del Moro reflects Tatiana’s love for Tuscany and her commitment to preserving its heritage. She discusses her inspirations, the significance of sustainability in her work, and her vision for the future of Poggio del Moro.
What inspired you to establish Poggio del Moro 17 years ago, and how has your personal journey influenced the winery’s development over the years? – Poggio del Moro was born from a deep-seated passion for organic winemaking and a desire to create a space where the land and its heritage could be celebrated. My journey has been a blend of personal and professional experiences, from studying viticulture to traveling through various wine regions around the world. Each step taught me the importance of authenticity and connection to the land. This perspective has guided every decision at Poggio del Moro, ensuring that our wines reflect not only the terroir but also our story of dedication and commitment to quality through modern enology and, at the same time, forgotten traditions.
Poggio del Moro winery is situated within the prestigious DOP Chianti Colli Sinesi appellation. In addition to this traditional designation, we also embrace the creative freedom offered by the IGP classification, allowing us to innovate and express our vision through unique wine creations.
Our commitment to quality has enabled us to gain recognition for our exceptional wines, including the distinguished Chianti Colli Sinesi Riserva, the elegant Superiore, and the approachable, oak-free Chianti “NU.” Each wine reflects our dedication to craftsmanship and our passion for excellence in every bottle.
Each bottle is a reflection of our land’s vitality and the distinctive qualities of each vintage.
Poggio del Moro is situated in the heart of Tuscany, south of Montepulciano. How does the unique terroir of this region contribute to the character and quality of your wines? – The terroir of Tuscany, particularly here in Montepulciano and Chianciano Terme, is extraordinary. The diverse soil types, close to the dormant volcano Monte Amiata in a UNESCO area full of springs, combined with our altitude and microclimate, create ideal conditions for our vineyards. This region imparts unique mineral qualities and depth to our wines. The interplay between sun exposure, soil composition, and local flora results in grapes that express the rich history and character of Tuscany. Each bottle reflects our land’s vitality and the distinctive qualities of each vintage. And don’t forget, we are a bio-certified winery, working as closely as possible with nature—that’s our foundation.
Your philosophy emphasizes expressing the ‘soul’ of your vineyards through natural fermentation and the use of native yeasts. Can you elaborate on how this process impacts the final product? – Natural fermentation is vital in allowing our wines to develop their unique identities. By using native yeasts, we invite the vineyard’s ecosystem into the winemaking process. This approach enhances the complexity of our wines, allowing them to express the subtle nuances of the terroir. Each vintage becomes a living testament to that specific year, capturing its essence and character. The result is a wine that tells a story, full of personality and authenticity.
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Sustainability and a caring attitude toward nature are central to your winemaking approach. What environmentally friendly technologies and practices do you employ in your vineyards and winery? – Sustainability is woven into the fabric of our winemaking philosophy. We practice organic viticulture, focusing on biodiversity to create a balanced ecosystem, which includes using cover crops to enhance soil health and minimize erosion. In the winery, we utilize energy-efficient technologies and techniques that minimize water usage and waste.
Our estate encompasses 12 hectares of forest, 9 hectares of olive groves, and 6 hectares of permanent grassland, all of which play a vital role in carbon sequestration and oxygen production. Additionally, we have installed 130 kW of photovoltaic panels to harness solar energy, which powers the processing of our grapes into wine and olives into extra virgin olive oil. As a result, our production maintains a negative carbon footprint. We are committed to enhancing the atmosphere rather than depleting it, striving to provide future generations with a cleaner, more sustainable world than the one we inherited. Our goal is to create exceptional wines while respecting the natural resources that sustain us.
With 14 hectares planted with a variety of red and white grapes, how do you decide which grape varieties to cultivate, and what influence does this diversity have on your wine portfolio? – Selecting grape varieties is a careful process, influenced by the specific characteristics of our terroir and our vision for the wines. The red variety Sangiovese and the white variety Trebbiano are natives of our land, making them essential. We cultivate a mix of indigenous and international varieties, allowing us to explore a range of flavors and styles.
This diversity enriches our portfolio, providing consumers with unique tasting experiences that showcase the versatility of our land. Each grape variety contributes its own character, creating a harmonious expression of our vineyards.
We have redefined our wine production approach by revitalizing a region historically renowned for its Sangiovese and Trebbiano grapes since Etruscan times. Our goal has been to interpret the unique character of this territory by pioneering the first rosé (Sangiovese) and white (Trebbiano) Pet Nat (metodo ancestrale) in the area, starting in 2014, and creating a distinctive orange wine “Senza di me” from Trebbiano, as well as a light red “Attenzione Fragile” from Sangiovese. We’re the first winery in all of Italy, not just Tuscany, to focus on crafting an easy-drinking Sangiovese served at a refreshing 5 degrees, ideal for our hot summers. Yet, remember, before us, this area was famous for powerful, full-bodied Sangiovese wines, like Brunello, Nobile di Montepulciano, and Chianti.
We aim to create exceptional wines while respecting the natural resources that sustain us.
We utilize native wild yeasts sourced directly from the ambient vineyard environment and the skins of the grapes, further enhancing the authenticity of our wines. All our products are organic or naturally produced and free from additives, reflecting our commitment to purity and sustainability. This innovative approach has positioned our winery as a regional leader, setting the standard for new styles of Sangiovese with Trebbiano and introducing these unique practices to the wine world.
The sole exotic addition to our portfolio is our oak-aged white Riesling. Its remarkable balance and quality reveal the exceptional potential of the Chianciano Terme terroir for this varietal. We are proud to showcase how this unique region can produce outstanding Riesling, deserving of recognition on the global stage.
You work with a professional, young, and passionate team from all over the world. How does this international collaboration enrich the winemaking process at Poggio del Moro? – Our team brings a wealth of perspectives and expertise from various wine cultures. This collaboration fosters creativity and innovation, encouraging us to experiment with techniques and ideas that enhance our winemaking. The shared passion for quality and sustainability unites us, creating an environment where everyone’s input is valued. This diversity of thought ultimately enriches the final product, resulting in wines that are both unique and globally inspired.
For example, the rosé “Galio” and the white wine “Ivole” emerged from a collaboration with Peter Finlayson, the founder of Bouchard Finlayson in South Africa. The concept for natural wines was inspired through a partnership with Russian sommelier Zhenya Shamov.
Your vineyards follow the natural profile of the hills without altering the soil composition. How does this method affect the growth of your vines and the expression of terroir in your wines? – Our approach is rooted in a deep respect for nature. When establishing our vineyards, we chose not to disrupt the soil’s natural structure. Instead, we preserved the existing profiles to protect the fertile layers and maintain the integrity of the humus. By honoring the land, we aligned our planting practices with the ancient contours of our hills, nurturing the environment we cherish.
By allowing our vineyards to follow the natural contours of the land, we promote healthy vine growth and encourage deep root systems. This practice helps our vines access the minerals and nutrients they need, resulting in grapes that express the true character of the terroir. The wines produced reflect this natural balance, embodying the spirit of the landscape and delivering a sense of place with every sip.
Poggio del Moro aims to offer “Tuscany in a glass.” How do you capture the essence of Tuscany in your wines, and what do you hope consumers experience when they taste them? – Capturing the essence of Tuscany involves more than just the grapes; it’s about honoring the land, traditions, and the people. We aim for our wines to reflect the flavors and aromas of this region, evoking the beauty of its landscapes and the richness of its history. When consumers taste our wines, I hope they experience a connection to Tuscany—a sense of warmth, hospitality, and the timeless beauty of this remarkable place.
Can you describe the experience guests can expect when visiting your winery, from the tasting room to the small inner shop nestled among the olive groves and cypresses? – Visiting Poggio del Moro is like stepping into a tranquil oasis. Guests are greeted by stunning landscapes of olive groves and cypress trees, creating a serene atmosphere and a cozy, exclusive wine-tasting experience. In our tasting room, we offer a curated selection of our wines, paired with local artisanal foods that highlight the region’s flavors. The intimate shop allows visitors to take a piece of Poggio del Moro home, with carefully selected natural and classic style organic wines, extra virgin olive oil, and other local products. We aim to create an unforgettable experience that immerses guests in the beauty and richness of Tuscany.
Looking to the future, what are your aspirations for Poggio del Moro, and how do you plan to continue preserving traditional methods while innovating for the next generation of wine lovers? – My vision for Poggio del Moro is to blend tradition with innovation in a natural, clean, and elegant way, ensuring we honor our heritage while adapting to new challenges and opportunities. We will continue to invest in sustainable practices and explore new winemaking techniques that enhance our offerings. I aspire to cultivate a community of wine lovers who appreciate the artistry of winemaking and the importance of sustainability. Through education and engagement, we hope to inspire future generations to cherish and protect the beautiful land that produces our wines.
Poggio del Moro
www.poggiodelmoro.com
Via delle Cavine e Valli
7953042 Chianciano Terme SI, Italy
info@poggiodelmoro.it
+39 339 564 6897
