Schiaparelli presents its Fall Winter 2026 Haute Couture collection under the title The Call of the Void, with Daniel Roseberry turning creative uncertainty into the season’s central force. After the breakthrough of last season’s The Agony and the Ecstasy, Roseberry began with the idea that the process could be repeated. A trip to Barcelona to see Gaudí’s work was meant to act as the catalyst, but the expected formula failed. The collection only began to move when control gave way to surrender.
COUTURE COLLECTIONS
That tension shapes the entire season. Roseberry frames the collection around l’appel du vide, the French expression for the call of the void, using it as a way to describe the risk and exhilaration of making without certainty. For Schiaparelli, this idea connects directly to Elsa Schiaparelli’s own Surrealist instinct. Surrealism, in this context, does not offer escape. It reveals what logic cannot contain.
The collection pushes couture away from the expected nobility of traditional materials. Instead of focusing on silks, satins, and wools, the atelier works with latex, silicone, and paint baked into sheets before being sculpted into silhouettes. This shift questions where beauty sits: in the material itself, or in the imagination capable of transforming it.
House codes appear, but Roseberry refuses to treat them as static. The Schiaparelli jacket, usually a central piece, becomes an accessory, embroidered and detailed to enhance the full look rather than define it alone. The gesture reflects the designer’s interest in making the familiar strange again.
The material experimentation runs through the collection in highly worked pieces. One dress features a hyper-realistic bustier sculpted, cast in silicone, and painted in milky blue. Its skirt carries a floral motif made from hundreds of hosiery flowers stretched over metal wires and pearls, with colors moving from cornflower blue into caramel. Another dress uses weightless sculpted crinoline tubes, while a jacket and leggings are covered with real flowers, fish scales, and ribbon flowers, with kinetic latex tentacles extending from the shoulders.
Color also takes on a new intensity. Roseberry looks to flora and sea fauna, using lobster pink, violet, tangerine, saffron, and pale mint against high-gloss black, raw wax ecru, and Schiaparelli gold. At the house, gold functions beyond finish. It becomes ornament, armor, and sculptural surface.
Accessories extend the same mood of nature, kink, and transformation. The Secret bag appears with crinoline spikes or embroidered flowers, while the new Bubble shoe introduces an alien metallic shape fitted with a silicone sleeve. Jewelry includes gold-plated shell earrings with blush-pink porcelain interiors, tentacle-shaped gold earrings, bracelets, and necklaces, and silicone pieces recalling sea anemones.
With The Call of the Void, Schiaparelli FW26 Haute Couture presents creation as a fall into the unknown. Roseberry gives the season its force by allowing uncertainty to remain visible, turning fear, contradiction, and experiment into couture.
