On the centenary of surrealism, Clara Colette Miramon debuts her first runway show, “Nesting,” paying tribute to the often overlooked women of the surrealist movement. Drawing inspiration from three iconic figures who profoundly influenced the movement while living in 1930s Paris—Dorothea Tanning, Meret Oppenheim, and Leonor Fini—Miramon’s collection begins with their outrageous personalities and the mixture of beauty and terror that underlie their works. The collection’s exploration of femininity is deeply rooted in the surrealist tradition, offering a modern twist on the enigmatic appeal these artists embodied.
Dreams and distortions are at the epicenter of this collection, mirroring the artistic production of the muses. Tanning’s soft sculptures, which provocatively explore femininity, find echoes in garments lined with trimmed faux fur and crafted from printed mesh. The padded skeleton look is a reinterpretation of a dress made for Elsa Schiaparelli by Oppenheim, evolving from her sculpture work. Rat imagery, present in prints and embroidery throughout the collection, draws from Fini’s fascination with taxidermy, transforming an animal often deemed repulsive into an object of beauty.
On the runway, Miramon portrays a dichotomy of femininity through the figures of the “virgin” and the “rat girl.” The “virgin” embodies purity and innocence, dreaming of a rebellious world, while the “rat girl” exudes glamour, strength, and confidence. This duality is depicted using layers of organza draped over denim, creating a dreamlike veil that blurs the lines of reality. The designs juxtapose ruffles with structured corsets and suits, further exploring this tension. The organza fabrics create a veiled appearance over the denim, adding to the surreal, otherworldly feel of the collection.
A standout piece is a dress made entirely of boxing gloves, reminiscent of Tanning’s soft bodily sculptures. This piece highlights the contrast between the softness of the material and the aggression inherent in boxing, underscoring the collection’s exploration of feminine strength. Corsets and cutouts mold the female figure in a rigid manner, contrasting with the softness of the fabrics, further emphasizing the duality of strength and vulnerability.
The prints in the collection, developed in collaboration with visual artist Camille Soulat, evoke girlhood through the lens of boxing imagery. Soulat’s work captures the moment of impact in a punch, distorting facial features and symbolizing the raw power and resilience of the “rat girls,” who stand as emblems of friendship and sisterhood. These prints, combined with the structural elements of corsets and cutouts, explore different facets of strength and femininity, creating a powerful visual narrative.
The collection is an exploration of femininity, female sexuality, and friendship, representing the paradoxes of being a woman. By grappling with the contrasts between purity and rebellion, and the nuanced perceptions of femininity, Miramon’s “Nesting” offers a compelling tribute to the surrealist women who have shaped our understanding of art and femininity.
View the collection in the Gallery below:
finally! finally something cool at berlin fashion week ! Keeping my eye on Clara Colette!
this season is much better than the previous ones