Thom Browne‘s Fall 2025 collection was unveiled against a backdrop of 2000 origami paper birds, creating a scene that blended reality with fantasy at the brand’s latest showcase. The collection, deeply rooted in a narrative of longing and liberation, featured two caged love birds amidst a flight of freedom. This motif of liberation and identity permeated the collection, with each piece asking, “how marvelous would it be to be exactly who we wish to be?”
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The runway was transformed into a mystical observatory as a pair of hooded ornithologists, clad in Thom Browne’s signature wool uniforms and semi-sheer argyle stockings peeping from suede waders, meticulously surveyed the scene. Their presence introduced a narrative that unfolded against the creative contours of traditional and modern fashion. As they sat poised at a white folded desk, the collection began its descent through silhouettes sharpened by strong shoulders, elongated jackets, and a variety of hemlines that danced from mini to floor-length, each uniquely influenced by the anatomy of birds.
The collection saw traditional menswear elements reimagined: suede elbow patches, contrast collars, and bespoke buttons played against modular shirting in vibrant gingham silk, featuring removable collars and cuffs reminiscent of the Gilded Age. Yet, it was the innovative use of materials and motifs that truly defined the collection, with “65” emblazoned pieces paying tribute to Browne’s year of birth, alongside a modern reinterpretation of collegiate fashion staples.
Amidst this array of redefined classics were flashes of ornate craftsmanship, with over 3,500 Swarovski crystals intricately woven into trompe l’oeil dresses, and sequences of boucle yarn and silk ribbons that mirrored the collection’s thematic richness. The pieces were not only garments but also narratives woven into the very fabric of the designs, celebrating a high-octane mix of textural diversity.
The collection’s theatricality extended into its use of symbolism and surrealism. Imaginary birds, conjured through a collaborative drawing exercise known as “exquisite corpse,” decorated the garments. These fantastical creatures, rendered in satin stitch and gold bullion embroidery, perched on pockets and swept across patchwork coats, accompanied by silk intarsia herons and magpies pilfering emerald Swarovski crystals. These embellishments not only enhanced the garments but also infused them with a narrative depth, bridging the surreal with the sartorial.
Thom Browne’s Fall 2025 collection was a celebration of the possibilities within fashion to explore and express the most whimsical fantasies. This collection reaffirmed Thom Browne’s position as a designer who not only dresses the body but also captures the imagination, continuing to push the boundaries of what fashion can represent and achieve.
